Changing Your Oil

Parts Needed

Toyota Oil Filter: Part #08922-02011
6 Qts of Motor Oil: 5W-30 Full Synthetic or regular oil
Oil plug gasket (generic)

Tools/Supplies Needed

14mm racheting wrench
Lift and Jackstands
Filter wrench with extension
10 quart Oil Drip Pan
Funnel (long nozzle type)
Newspaper and/or shop towels
Wheel chocks

Summary

This write up is based on changing the oil on a 1998 4Runner SR5 V6. As you probably know, changing your oil is one of the most important and basic maintenance tasks that you can easily perform on your 4runner. While I'm not going to get into the great debate on the different types of motor oils, filters and intervals, I will say that your safest bet is to stay within the Toyota factory guidelines. Your owner's manual will tell you exactly what that is. For me, I use the OEM Toyota oil filter with Mobil 1 5W-30 at 5,000 mile intervals.

Step 1: Draining the Oil

Unscrew your oil cap and put it in a safe place. Removing the oil cap will allow the oil to flow out faster when you unscrew the oil plug.

Next, get under your 4runner, place your newspapers down, put your drip pan under the oil pan and get ready to unscrew the oil plug. Take your 14mm racheting wrench and unscrew your oil plug. Quickly remove the oil plug and let the oil drain away.

Let the oil drain until there is a very slow drip before proceeding to Step 2.

The oil plug is located through the rear portion of the skid plate.

Step 2: Removing and Replacing the Oil Plug and Filter

There are two ways to do this but I'll illustrate the one that works best for me. I unfastened part of the flap and unscrewed (by hand) the old oil filter through the hole. If it is fastened on too tight, use the oil filter wrench w/ the extension to loosen it. Quickly remove the oil filter by hand and tilt it level to reduce oil spillage.

No matter how many times I've tried to minimize spillage, it is a lost cause. A fair amount of oil will seep onto your rear skid plate. No big deal---that is what the newspapers and the shop towels are for.

By now, the old oil should have drained out. Screw the gasketed oil plug back on. Get your new oil filter, put some oil on your finger, apply a light film on the rubber seal of the new oil filter and then hand screw the new oil filter onto the oil filter mount.

Here's a bottom view of the oil filter.

Turn your wheels to the left, undo the flap (marked as "A") and you can reach in and unscrew the oil filter. (marked as "B")

Step 3: Filling and Checking the Oil

Place your oil funnel inside and pour in your oil. Pour in 5.5 quarts. Screw the oil cap back on. Remove the oil dipstick (yellow handle) located in the picture to the right and check the oil level to give you preliminary reading.

Run the engine for about 1-2 minutes, turn it off, and then check your oil level after a few seconds. Add more oil if necessary.

Be sure to record your current mileage. It is best to change your oil every 5,000 miles. Fully synthetic oils are rated for longer, but I would keep it to 8,000 miles to be safe.

Oil: For the 3rd Gen V6 engine, add 5.5 US Quarts

Step 4: The Clean Up

A fairly significant amount of oil should have seeped onto your rear skidplate. Most likely it is dripping onto your newspapers---if you have placed them in the right place, of course. Wipe the skid plate clean. You'll figure out where most of it has seeped. After clean up, remove the oil sump and seal. Place your used filter in the box. Throw away used newspapers.